You may encounter a different color extruding at first, or you may have a clog on the extreme side. ¶ Filament in HotendĪnkerMake has been testing every hotend. The bottom left and top left have shown to break filament consistently. The most successful placement to date has been to place it where it is straight up from the M5. Many questions have been asked about filament placement. Why may you ask? This can make your print bed wobble and/or lead to inconsistent first layers, which are the most important. The supply kit that comes with the M5 will have the correct hex bits to tighten them down if they are loose. Remove your PEI sheet, and there are a total of 6 hex bolts holding the bed to the gantry. Some print beds have come with loose screws. Also, if you want to store files for print and not send them wirelessly, a USB-C thumb drive or regular USB stick with a USB-C adapter. While this is completely optional, it is highly recommended to acquire calipers, a deburring tool, alcohol, a lighter (heat gun if you're fancy), nice hex tool set, a box of assorted metric, and files (the type you use to sand metal, not the files you use to print). ¶ Tools To Have on Hand That Make Life Easier
PRUSA SLICER M1 CODE
Time to get acquainted with printing with another slicer… Anker said their new Slicer will be working on the PrusaSlicer code as fork.We recommend using Anker Filament with these files for best results. See "Models in internal memory" section below for more details. If everything is good from here up: Try (or skip ahead) printing a provided model that came with the machine.Read over this page and this link for tips and tricks.(Try to hold back from printing if you can.)
PRUSA SLICER M1 INSTALL
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